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How Often Should You Use Azelaic Acid for Best Results?

by Ella Goodman 17 Sep 2024

Whether you’re dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, or rosacea, azelaic acid has likely made an appearance in your skincare search. 

But you might be wondering, how often should you use azelaic acid to get the best results? 

Here’s everything you need to know—from the ideal frequency of application to the dos and don'ts of integrating this powerhouse ingredient into your skincare routine.

Your Skincare MVP: The Power of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It's celebrated for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and exfoliating properties.

Basically, it's a multitasking superhero for your skin. 

This makes it ideal for treating a range of skin concerns, including acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. 

The real magic lies in how it helps to normalize the skin’s keratinization process, reducing clogged pores and inflammation.

The Perfect Frequency: Finding Your Sweet Spot

Typically, dermatologists recommend starting with a lower concentration of azelaic acid, around 10%, especially if you have sensitive skin. 

As your skin builds tolerance, you can move to a higher concentration, usually up to 20%.

For optimal results:

Start Slow: Begin by using azelaic acid once a day, preferably in the evening

This allows your skin to get used to the ingredient without overwhelming it.

Monitor Your Skin: Observe how your skin reacts. If there’s no excessive dryness or irritation after two weeks, you can increase the frequency. Aim to use it twice daily—morning and evening.

Stay Consistent: Like any skincare ingredient, consistency is key. Regular use over time yields the best outcomes, particularly when it comes to treating persistent conditions like hyperpigmentation and rosacea.

The Complexion Companions: What to Pair (and Not Pair) Azelaic Acid With

You’re probably thinking, “Great! What else can I use with azelaic acid?” 

Here’s a cheat sheet on what plays well with it—and what doesn’t:

Go Together Like PB&J

  • Niacinamide: This is basically azelaic acid’s best friend. Together, they tackle redness and boost skin barrier health. Niacinamide is excellent at regulating oil production and improving the overall texture of your skin, making it an ideal companion.
  • Hyaluronic Acid: Perfect for hydration, hyaluronic acid keeps your skin from drying out. Azelaic acid, though effective, can cause some dryness, and hyaluronic acid steps in to keep things supple and hydrated. More moisture means a happier skin barrier, which translates to better results over time.
  • Ceramides: Think of ceramides as the building blocks of your skin’s barrier. They work harmoniously with azelaic acid to repair and strengthen your skin. Healthier skin means better resilience against external stressors and enhanced effectiveness of your active ingredients.
  • Squalane: This lightweight oil mimics the natural oils in your skin, providing non-greasy hydration. It’s particularly useful in countering any dryness caused by azelaic acid, ensuring that your skin remains balanced and nourished.

Proceed with Caution

  • Vitamin C: While both azelaic acid and Vitamin C are awesome at brightening, using them at the same time can be overkill for some skin types. You can use them together, and in fact we’ve done exactly that in our Ultra-Potent Brightening Serum — but we’re talking about a heavy-duty brightening weapon here. If your skin is on the sensitive side, it might be safer to use Vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid at night.
  • Retinoids: Retinoids and azelaic acid can both be strong contenders in the fight against acne and aging. However, combining these might lead to irritation, especially if you're not used to them. If you want to use both, try alternating nights or consulting with a dermatologist for a customized schedule.
  • Benzoyl Peroxide: Combining benzoyl peroxide with azelaic acid is like throwing a wild party that no one wants to clean up after. This duo can lead to excessive dryness, redness, and irritation. If you’re dealing with stubborn acne, it’s best to choose one and stick with it.

Your Most Pressing FAQs about Azelaic Acid

Alright, let’s hit pause and tackle some of the most common questions sprawling across your mind, shall we?

Can I Use Azelaic Acid if I Have Sensitive Skin?

Yes! Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, even for those with sensitive skin. Start with lower concentrations (10% is a good starting point) and gradually work your way up. Always do a patch test first to make sure your skin doesn't react negatively.

Does Azelaic Acid Make Your Skin Purge?

Nope, azelaic acid doesn't typically cause purging. What you might experience is a transient phase where your skin adjusts to the new active ingredient, but this is usually mild and temporary.

How Long Before I See Results?

Patience is key. Visible improvements can be seen in as little as a few weeks, but for more significant changes like fading hyperpigmentation or reducing rosacea symptoms, give it about two to three months. Consistency is everything.

Is It Safe to Use During Pregnancy?

Great news for soon-to-be moms! Azelaic acid is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Always consult with your healthcare provider for personalized advice, but rest assured, this ingredient is among the safer options available.

Advanced Strategies: Customize Your Routine

So, you're into the pro leagues now and looking to finesse your routine even further? Let's explore some advanced tactics.

Layering with Patience

When introducing stronger actives like azelaic acid into your routine, always remember to proceed with caution. Start with one new product at a time and give it at least two weeks before adding another. This way, you can easily identify what works and what doesn’t, without overwhelming your skin.

Balancing Actives

Balance your routine by alternating potent actives on different nights. For instance, you might apply azelaic acid on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and retinoids on Tuesdays and Thursdays. This approach keeps your skin engaged and minimizes the risk of irritation.

Focus on Recovery

Incorporate soothing and reparative products into your routine. Ingredients like aloe vera, green tea, and centella asiatica can work wonders in calming the skin. Use these on the nights you skip azelaic acid to ensure your skin has time to recover and stay healthy.

SPF: Slather on the Good Stuff

When it comes to azelaic acid, sunscreen is non-negotiable. 

Think of it as your skincare sidekick. Azelaic acid can amplify your skin’s sensitivity to the sun's harsh rays, making SPF your best ally. 

We’re not talking about a half-hearted dab here; you need a generous application of broad-spectrum SPF 30 (minimum) every single day. Yes, even when it's overcast. Yes, even when you're just stepping out for a coffee.

The sun’s UVA and UVB rays don’t take a day off, and neither should your sunscreen routine. 

Picture this: azelaic acid working hard beneath the surface to even out your skin tone and fight blemishes, only for UV rays to sneak in and wreak havoc. It's like making a gourmet meal and leaving it out for ants. 

And here's a pro tip: consider a sunscreen that suits your skin type. If you're oily, go for a matte, oil-free formula. If you're dry, a hydrating, cream-based SPF will be your jam. 

And for the love of all that’s radiant, reapply every two hours if you’re out and about!

Troubleshooting: When Things Go South

Irritation and Redness

So, you're seeing some irritation and redness? 

First things first: breathe. This isn’t the end of your glowy skin dreams. 

Sometimes, your skin just needs a little time to adapt to the newcomer in your routine. 

Cut back on frequency—if you jumped in daily, dial it back to every other day or even just twice a week.

And hydration is key. Think of it as giving your skin a soothing hug. Load up on gentle, hydrating serums and moisturizers. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides to restore your skin's barrier and calm the storm.

Breakouts

Ugh, breakouts. The bane of any skincare enthusiast. 

When new to active ingredients, it’s not uncommon to encounter what's known as "purging." This is your skin expelling built-up gunk and debris—basically a deep clean. 

It might seem counterproductive, but it’s often a sign that the product is doing its job. Stick with it for a few weeks, and this phase should pass.

If the breakouts persist beyond six weeks or are severely worsening, it’s time to reassess. Check for other pore-clogging culprits in your routine and consider a chat with your dermatologist for an expert opinion.

No Results?

Been religiously using azelaic acid but not seeing the promised land of clear, radiant skin? It happens. Skincare can be a puzzle, and sometimes a piece is missing. 

Firstly, ensure you're using the right concentration—10-20% typically yields notable results. 

Next, review your entire routine. Are you pairing azelaic acid with products that might counteract its benefits? Sometimes simplifying your regimen can allow azelaic acid to work its magic more effectively.

If all else fails, professional advice from a dermatologist can be invaluable. They can recommend tweaks, alternative treatments, or higher-strength prescriptions that might be the game-changer you need.

DIY Azelaic Acid Mood-Boosters

Skincare Journal

Ever wanted to play the scientist and the subject all at once? Keep a skincare journal. 

Documenting your journey with photos and notes can be surprisingly motivating. You’ll be able to see the small, daily improvements that might otherwise go unnoticed. Plus, it’s a killer way to spot any patterns or triggers causing flare-ups.

Skincare Selfies

Tracking progress through selfies has an added bonus—it keeps you accountable. The visual record ensures you stick with your routine even when it’s easier to slack off. Plus, sharing your journey on social media could inspire someone else dealing with similar skin struggles.

Face Mask Delight

Incorporate a weekly mask into your regimen. A soothing clay mask can detoxify and calm your skin, giving it the extra love it needs. Or, go for a hydrating sheet mask loaded with ingredients like aloe vera or snail mucin to balance out the active power of azelaic acid. 

This mini spa moment can make your skincare routine feel indulgent rather than a chore. 

Zen Zone

Turn your skincare routine into a sanctuary. Light a candle, play some soothing tunes, and transform the act of applying azelaic acid into a ritual. It’s not just about the product; it’s about the entire experience. This moment of self-care can be a grounding, calming way to start or end your day.

Lifestyle Tie-Ins

Diet Do’s and Don’ts

Your skin is a reflection of what you put into your body. 

Supercharge your diet with antioxidant-rich fruits and veggies like berries, spinach, and nuts. These power foods fight off free radicals and maintain that youthful glow.

Incorporate healthy fats—think avocados, fish, and olive oil. These fats are essential for maintaining your skin’s lipid barrier, promoting smooth, supple skin from within.

Hydration Station

If hydrated skin is happy skin, then water is your skin’s BFF. Aim to drink at least eight glasses of water a day. And if you're forgetful, a hydration app can be a game-changer. Not only will your skin thank you, but your entire body will feel the benefits.

Sleep Tight

Never underestimate the power of a good night’s sleep. Prioritize getting 7-9 hours of quality slumber each night. Your skin does the majority of its repair work while you’re sleeping, so skimping on shut-eye can delay your results. 

Consider investing in a silk pillowcase. It reduces friction, helping to minimize those pesky sleep lines and potential irritation. It’s a small change, but it can make a world of difference.

Embrace the Journey

Skincare is a marathon, not a sprint. The key with azelaic acid—or any skincare product—is consistent and thoughtful use over time. Your skin has its own rhythm and will respond uniquely based on how you treat it.

Understanding your skin’s needs and responding accordingly will lead you to that glowing complexion you’ve been dreaming of. 

So, embrace the journey, be kind to your skin, and remember that mastering your skincare game is all about finding what works best for you.

Join the Conversation

We’re all in this together. Share your skincare adventures, triumphs, and trials in the comments below. Your story might be the inspiration someone else needs. 

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